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History of Big Sur
The first Europeans to see Big Sur were Spanish mariners led by Juan Cabrillo in
1542, who sailed up the coast without landing. Two centuries passed before the
Spanish attempted to colonize the area. In 1769, an expedition led by Gaspar de
Portolà were the first Europeans known to set foot in Big Sur, in the far south near
San Carpoforo Canyon. Daunted by the sheer cliffs, his party avoided the area and
pressed far inland.
1542, who sailed up the coast without landing. Two centuries passed before the
Spanish attempted to colonize the area. In 1769, an expedition led by Gaspar de
Portolà were the first Europeans known to set foot in Big Sur, in the far south near
San Carpoforo Canyon. Daunted by the sheer cliffs, his party avoided the area and
pressed far inland.
Portolà landed in Monterey Bay in 1770, and with Father Junìpero Serra, who helped
found most of the missions in California, established the town Monterey, which
became the capital of the Spanish colony Alta California. The Spanish gave Big Sur
its name during this period, calling the region el país grande del sur (the Big Country
of the South) which was often shortened to el sur grande, because it was a vast,
unexplored, and impenetrable land south of their capital at Monterey.
found most of the missions in California, established the town Monterey, which
became the capital of the Spanish colony Alta California. The Spanish gave Big Sur
its name during this period, calling the region el país grande del sur (the Big Country
of the South) which was often shortened to el sur grande, because it was a vast,
unexplored, and impenetrable land south of their capital at Monterey.
The Spanish colonization devastated the Native American population. Most tribe
members died out from European diseases or forced labor and malnutrition at the
missions in the eighteenth century, while many remaining members assimilated
with Spanish and Mexican ranchers in the nineteenth century.
members died out from European diseases or forced labor and malnutrition at the
missions in the eighteenth century, while many remaining members assimilated
with Spanish and Mexican ranchers in the nineteenth century.
Historical settlement of the Big Sur coast was initiated by the Mexican
Government in the late 18th century with the bestowal of two land
grants-the 8,949 acre Rancho El Sur (between the Little Sur River and
what is now called Cooper Point) and Rancho San Jose y Sur Chiquito,
an 8,876 acre grant, bounded on the north by the Carmel River and on
the south by Palo Colorado Canyon. Along with the rest of California,
Big Sur became part of Mexico when it gained independence from
Spain in 1821.
Government in the late 18th century with the bestowal of two land
grants-the 8,949 acre Rancho El Sur (between the Little Sur River and
what is now called Cooper Point) and Rancho San Jose y Sur Chiquito,
an 8,876 acre grant, bounded on the north by the Carmel River and on
the south by Palo Colorado Canyon. Along with the rest of California,
Big Sur became part of Mexico when it gained independence from
Spain in 1821.
Three Native American tribes were the first people to inhabit the area now known as Big Sur: the Ohlone, Esselen, and
Salinan. Archaeological evidence shows that they lived in Big Sur for thousands of years, leading a nomadic,
hunter-gatherer existence. Few traces of their material culture have survived. Their arrow heads were made of
obsidian, which indicates trading links with tribes hundreds of miles away, since the nearest sources of obsidian are
in the Sierra Nevada mountains and the northern California Coast Ranges. Bedrock mortars, large exposed rocks
hollowed out into bowl shapes that were used to grind oak acorns into flour, can be found at sites throughout Big Sur.
Salinan. Archaeological evidence shows that they lived in Big Sur for thousands of years, leading a nomadic,
hunter-gatherer existence. Few traces of their material culture have survived. Their arrow heads were made of
obsidian, which indicates trading links with tribes hundreds of miles away, since the nearest sources of obsidian are
in the Sierra Nevada mountains and the northern California Coast Ranges. Bedrock mortars, large exposed rocks
hollowed out into bowl shapes that were used to grind oak acorns into flour, can be found at sites throughout Big Sur.
In 1834, the Mexican governor José Figueroa granted a 9000-acre rancho in northern Big
Sur to Juan Bautista Alvarado,The grant was for two leagues of land, or roughly 8,880
acres. The expedient filed by Alvarado on May 14, 1834 stated that he had first petitioned
for a provisional grant on August 12, 1830, and repeated his petition on February 26,
1831. It further asserted that he maintained "at this time . . . more than three hundred head
of large cattle and nearly an (sic) hundred horses, all my own property, and have built a
house and pens."
Sur to Juan Bautista Alvarado,The grant was for two leagues of land, or roughly 8,880
acres. The expedient filed by Alvarado on May 14, 1834 stated that he had first petitioned
for a provisional grant on August 12, 1830, and repeated his petition on February 26,
1831. It further asserted that he maintained "at this time . . . more than three hundred head
of large cattle and nearly an (sic) hundred horses, all my own property, and have built a
house and pens."
| Cooper Cabin in 1888. |
Soon after the grant was made, the property was acquired by Captain J.B.R. Cooper,
Alvarado's uncle by marriage. Although no official transfer was made until 1840, Cooper
when he entered into an agreement with Job Dye for the latter to raise mules on the
property.
Alvarado's uncle by marriage. Although no official transfer was made until 1840, Cooper
when he entered into an agreement with Job Dye for the latter to raise mules on the
property.
By 1904, the cabin had achieved a venerable age and was being popularly imbued with a fanciful and romantic past. In
a Sunset Magazine article entitled "The Romance of the Spanish Grants," (ignoring the fact that the Rancho El Sur was
a Mexican grant), author Mary Bell described the cabin:
. . . in one of the hushed places, the home-builder erected his dwelling from shafts of the sequoias. The stately spanish
lady, his wife, never visited the house in the wilderness, but one can fancy that the captain planted the spreading
rose-bush, which is still aflame with pink blossoms every month of the year, for Dona Encarnacion to enjoy. The house
still stands, windowless and doorless, behind the long windbreak of eucalypts (sic) . . .
a Sunset Magazine article entitled "The Romance of the Spanish Grants," (ignoring the fact that the Rancho El Sur was
a Mexican grant), author Mary Bell described the cabin:
. . . in one of the hushed places, the home-builder erected his dwelling from shafts of the sequoias. The stately spanish
lady, his wife, never visited the house in the wilderness, but one can fancy that the captain planted the spreading
rose-bush, which is still aflame with pink blossoms every month of the year, for Dona Encarnacion to enjoy. The house
still stands, windowless and doorless, behind the long windbreak of eucalypts (sic) . . .
This contract, dated June 16, 1834, referred to "his (Cooper's) farm
called the Sur (about 30 miles from Monterey)," and arranged for Dye, a
Kentuckian who had arrived in California in 1832, to breed mules from
the mares and jackasses already on the place.
called the Sur (about 30 miles from Monterey)," and arranged for Dye, a
Kentuckian who had arrived in California in 1832, to breed mules from
the mares and jackasses already on the place.
In 1848, as a result of the Mexican-American War, Mexico ceded California to the United States. After passage of the
federal Homestead Act in 1862, a few hardy pioneers moved into Big Sur, drawn by the promise of free 160-acre
parcels. Many local sites are named after the settlers from this period: Gamboa, Pfeiffer, Post, Partington, Ross and
McWay are common place names. Consistent with the Anglo-Hispanic heritage of the area, the new settlers mixed
English and Spanish and began to call their new home "Big Sur."
federal Homestead Act in 1862, a few hardy pioneers moved into Big Sur, drawn by the promise of free 160-acre
parcels. Many local sites are named after the settlers from this period: Gamboa, Pfeiffer, Post, Partington, Ross and
McWay are common place names. Consistent with the Anglo-Hispanic heritage of the area, the new settlers mixed
English and Spanish and began to call their new home "Big Sur."
From the 1860s through the turn of the twentieth century, lumbering
cut down most of the coast redwoods. Along with industries based on
tanoak bark , gold mining, and limestone processing, the local
economy provided more jobs and supported a larger population than
today.
cut down most of the coast redwoods. Along with industries based on
tanoak bark , gold mining, and limestone processing, the local
economy provided more jobs and supported a larger population than
today.
The development of a tan bark industry in the mid-1870's led to the
construction of several landings along the Big Sur Coast. These
landings were used for loading the bark (used in the manufacture of
tannic acid), as well as for shipping redwood lumber. Among them
Anderson also had a landing and there was another at the mouth of
the Big Sur River. Perhaps the most spectacular was Partington
Landing at Partington Cove.
construction of several landings along the Big Sur Coast. These
landings were used for loading the bark (used in the manufacture of
tannic acid), as well as for shipping redwood lumber. Among them
Anderson also had a landing and there was another at the mouth of
the Big Sur River. Perhaps the most spectacular was Partington
Landing at Partington Cove.
As the 19th century drew to a close, more settlers came to live on the south
population of nearly 1,000 people by the 1880's The two sons of one of the As
the 19th century drew to a close, more settlers came to live on the south original
homesteaders, Bill Post, each homesteaded 160 acres, while various coast.
While life was extremely rugged in these early years, there was a relatives
acquired tracts totaling another 640 acres. Their land stretches as far south as
the site of the present-day Nepenthe Restaurant. The ranchhouse still stands on
Highway 1 at the top of what is now called "Post Grade". Big Sur's original post
office and its second schoolhouse were built on the Post Ranch.
population of nearly 1,000 people by the 1880's The two sons of one of the As
the 19th century drew to a close, more settlers came to live on the south original
homesteaders, Bill Post, each homesteaded 160 acres, while various coast.
While life was extremely rugged in these early years, there was a relatives
acquired tracts totaling another 640 acres. Their land stretches as far south as
the site of the present-day Nepenthe Restaurant. The ranchhouse still stands on
Highway 1 at the top of what is now called "Post Grade". Big Sur's original post
office and its second schoolhouse were built on the Post Ranch.
Hunting and trout fishing were also popular and some local residents
supplemented their income by guiding sportsmen from the cities.
The start of the resort business began with the Pfeiffer Ranch Resort,
which catered to these sportsmen. The Hotel Idlewild, located on the
banks of the Little Sur River, soon rivaled the Pfeiffer Ranch for its
business. After the industrial boom faded, the early decades of the
twentieth century passed with few changes, and Big Sur remained a
nearly inaccessible wilderness. As late as the 1920s, only two homes in
the entire region had electricity, locally generated by water wheels and
windmills. Most of the population lived without power until connections
to the California electric grid were established in the early 1950s.
supplemented their income by guiding sportsmen from the cities.
The start of the resort business began with the Pfeiffer Ranch Resort,
which catered to these sportsmen. The Hotel Idlewild, located on the
banks of the Little Sur River, soon rivaled the Pfeiffer Ranch for its
business. After the industrial boom faded, the early decades of the
twentieth century passed with few changes, and Big Sur remained a
nearly inaccessible wilderness. As late as the 1920s, only two homes in
the entire region had electricity, locally generated by water wheels and
windmills. Most of the population lived without power until connections
to the California electric grid were established in the early 1950s.
The one deterrent to the development of the south coast was
concept of a year-round scenic highway originated with Dr.
John Roberts, the founder of the City of Seaside. Many of the
original settlers were enraged by the devastation resulting from
the highway construction. Machinery blasted through the great
cliffs, scarring granite promontories, defiling canyons and
waterfalls with debris. On June 27, 1937, the highway was
completed at a cost of approximately $8,000,000, aided by New
Deal funds and the use of convict labor. A way of life had ended
and a new era had begun.
concept of a year-round scenic highway originated with Dr.
John Roberts, the founder of the City of Seaside. Many of the
original settlers were enraged by the devastation resulting from
the highway construction. Machinery blasted through the great
cliffs, scarring granite promontories, defiling canyons and
waterfalls with debris. On June 27, 1937, the highway was
completed at a cost of approximately $8,000,000, aided by New
Deal funds and the use of convict labor. A way of life had ended
and a new era had begun.
ranches and farms quickly giving way to tourist venues and second homes. Even with these modernizations, Big Sur
was spared the worst excesses of development, due largely to residents who fought to preserve the land. The Monterey
County government won a landmark court case in 1962, affirming its right to ban billboards and other visual distractions
on Highway 1. The county adopted one of the country's most stringent land use plans, prohibiting any new construction
within sight of the highway.
was spared the worst excesses of development, due largely to residents who fought to preserve the land. The Monterey
County government won a landmark court case in 1962, affirming its right to ban billboards and other visual distractions
on Highway 1. The county adopted one of the country's most stringent land use plans, prohibiting any new construction
within sight of the highway.
The process of ensuring the long-term protection of Big Sur's unique coastline was initiated by John Pfeiffer in 1934
when he sold 706 acres to the State for the nucleus of the 822 acre Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park. The Lathrop Browns, who
purchased Saddle Rock Ranch, later donated 1,700 acres which now constitutes Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park. The 21
acre John Little State Park, originally part of the Slate property sold to Milton Little, was donated by Elizabeth Livermore.
Francis Molera, granddaughter of Juan Bautista Roger Cooper, placed 2,000 acres in trust for Andrew Molera State
Park. The generosity of these pioneering families has been a lasting contribution to the preservation of Big Sur and the
legacy of the people of Monterey County .
when he sold 706 acres to the State for the nucleus of the 822 acre Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park. The Lathrop Browns, who
purchased Saddle Rock Ranch, later donated 1,700 acres which now constitutes Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park. The 21
acre John Little State Park, originally part of the Slate property sold to Milton Little, was donated by Elizabeth Livermore.
Francis Molera, granddaughter of Juan Bautista Roger Cooper, placed 2,000 acres in trust for Andrew Molera State
Park. The generosity of these pioneering families has been a lasting contribution to the preservation of Big Sur and the
legacy of the people of Monterey County .
| Captain Cooper |
was built in 1861 on the Cooper ranch. This three-room structure was
built of hand-hewn redwood logs with lap-jointed and pegged corners,
and roofed with hand-split redwood shingles. (The cabin still stands in
Andrew Molera State Park.)
built of hand-hewn redwood logs with lap-jointed and pegged corners,
and roofed with hand-split redwood shingles. (The cabin still stands in
Andrew Molera State Park.)
Bixby Landing
The 20th century saw the
emergence of
recreation-oriented commercial
development along the Big Sur
Coast.
emergence of
recreation-oriented commercial
development along the Big Sur
Coast.
Around the turn of the century, limited recreational use of the coast
began to occur. The Big Sur Valley could be reached by stage from
Monterey and camping in the redwood groves became popular.
began to occur. The Big Sur Valley could be reached by stage from
Monterey and camping in the redwood groves became popular.