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Stylized images of hands left by the Esselen on
cave walls.
cave walls.
Esselen Tribe
HANDS
Inside a cave in a narrow canyon near Tassajara
The vault of rock is painted with hands,
A multitude of hands in the twilight, a cloud of men's palms, no
more,
No other picture. There's no one to say
Whether the brown shy quiet people who are dead intended
Religion or magic, or made their tracings
In the idleness of art; but over the division of years these careful
Signs-manual are now like a sealed message
Saying "Look: we also were human; we had hands, not paws.
All hail
You people with the cleverer hands, our supplanters
In the beautiful country; enjoy her a season, her beauty, and
come down
And be supplanted; for you also are human."
-Robinson Jeffers
Inside a cave in a narrow canyon near Tassajara
The vault of rock is painted with hands,
A multitude of hands in the twilight, a cloud of men's palms, no
more,
No other picture. There's no one to say
Whether the brown shy quiet people who are dead intended
Religion or magic, or made their tracings
In the idleness of art; but over the division of years these careful
Signs-manual are now like a sealed message
Saying "Look: we also were human; we had hands, not paws.
All hail
You people with the cleverer hands, our supplanters
In the beautiful country; enjoy her a season, her beauty, and
come down
And be supplanted; for you also are human."
-Robinson Jeffers
Within the massive sandstone outcrops in the Church Creek area of the Ventana Wilderness, there are a number
of rock shelters, some of the larger of which were inhabited by Esselen Indians. One of these sites, The Caves
rock shelter , which has been occupied for at least 3,400 years, is of particular interest due to the nearly 250
images of hands that cover its walls. Ancient pictographs imprinted on the wall of a rock shelter, twelve miles due
east of Esalen Institute in the rugged Santa Lucia Mountains. Most of the images are stylized paintings, although
a few were made by placing a hand in a lime-based paint and then pressing it against the wall. As the images
were made from a white paint, they contrast with the walls, which have been darkened by the soot produced by
thousands of years of campfires. The images may have been inspired by a massive hand-shaped sandstone
outcrop located in the general vicinity.
The name Esselen most probably derives from a tribal location known as Ex’selen, "the rock," which is in turn
derived from the phrase Xue elo xonia eune, "I come from the rock."
of rock shelters, some of the larger of which were inhabited by Esselen Indians. One of these sites, The Caves
rock shelter , which has been occupied for at least 3,400 years, is of particular interest due to the nearly 250
images of hands that cover its walls. Ancient pictographs imprinted on the wall of a rock shelter, twelve miles due
east of Esalen Institute in the rugged Santa Lucia Mountains. Most of the images are stylized paintings, although
a few were made by placing a hand in a lime-based paint and then pressing it against the wall. As the images
were made from a white paint, they contrast with the walls, which have been darkened by the soot produced by
thousands of years of campfires. The images may have been inspired by a massive hand-shaped sandstone
outcrop located in the general vicinity.
The name Esselen most probably derives from a tribal location known as Ex’selen, "the rock," which is in turn
derived from the phrase Xue elo xonia eune, "I come from the rock."
It is unknown what Esselen tribelet the residents of the Church Creek area belonged to, for the region is located
near the presumed boundaries of three Esselen geo-political districts: Imunahan, which occupied much of the
central Arroyo Seco watershed, Excelen, which occupied most of the upper Carmel River watershed, and
Ekheahan, which occupied most of the upper watersheds of the Arroyo Seco and Big Sur Rivers and a section of
the Big Sur Coast between Post Creek and Big Creek. Perhaps the Church Creek Esselen were those from
"Agua Caliente" (Tassajara Hot Springs). Evidence suggests that the Esselen were drawn here by the hot
springs, which were used for healing (the Esselen word for the springs was believed to mean "the god in the
waters").
near the presumed boundaries of three Esselen geo-political districts: Imunahan, which occupied much of the
central Arroyo Seco watershed, Excelen, which occupied most of the upper Carmel River watershed, and
Ekheahan, which occupied most of the upper watersheds of the Arroyo Seco and Big Sur Rivers and a section of
the Big Sur Coast between Post Creek and Big Creek. Perhaps the Church Creek Esselen were those from
"Agua Caliente" (Tassajara Hot Springs). Evidence suggests that the Esselen were drawn here by the hot
springs, which were used for healing (the Esselen word for the springs was believed to mean "the god in the
waters").
The Esselen were one of the least numerous groups in California, (the Esselen population was between 500
and 1,000, probably closer to 500), and are often cited as the first California group to become culturally extinct.
Reasons cited generally include the small size of the group, and close proximity of Esselen territory to two of the
three earliest California Missions. This picture of Esselen extinction, although pervasive in the literature, is wrong.
Archaeological evidence indicates that members of the Esselen tribe continued to live in the vicinity of The
Church Creek Caves many years after the Spanish conquest in 1770, and some unconverted individuals may
have found refuge in this remote region in the late 1840s or early 1850s. The grave of a child was unearthed
during the excavation of the Isabella Meadows Cave in 1952, and based on dateable artifacts associated with the
burial (glass trading beads, a leather belt fragment and a wool blanket fragment), it was estimated that the grave
dated to about 1825. Evidence suggesting even later occupation of the area comes from the skeletons of two
individuals; one was found in a cave in the Church Creek area and the other who was accidentally unearthed at
Tassajara Hot Springs in April of 1994. Both were determined to have died about 150 years ago.
and 1,000, probably closer to 500), and are often cited as the first California group to become culturally extinct.
Reasons cited generally include the small size of the group, and close proximity of Esselen territory to two of the
three earliest California Missions. This picture of Esselen extinction, although pervasive in the literature, is wrong.
Archaeological evidence indicates that members of the Esselen tribe continued to live in the vicinity of The
Church Creek Caves many years after the Spanish conquest in 1770, and some unconverted individuals may
have found refuge in this remote region in the late 1840s or early 1850s. The grave of a child was unearthed
during the excavation of the Isabella Meadows Cave in 1952, and based on dateable artifacts associated with the
burial (glass trading beads, a leather belt fragment and a wool blanket fragment), it was estimated that the grave
dated to about 1825. Evidence suggesting even later occupation of the area comes from the skeletons of two
individuals; one was found in a cave in the Church Creek area and the other who was accidentally unearthed at
Tassajara Hot Springs in April of 1994. Both were determined to have died about 150 years ago.
Although no individuals claim full-blood status, there are hundreds of people who can document some degree of
descent from the Esselen. Some traditions have been passed down from generation to generation.
descent from the Esselen. Some traditions have been passed down from generation to generation.
| When they were "discovered" by the Spanish over 200 years ago, the Esselen lived in the upper Carmel Valley, in the rugged and densely-forested Santa Lucia Mountains, now a part of the Los Padres National Forest. Much of Esselen territory is now included within the Ventana Wilderness area. |
The earliest written accounts of the Esselen come from what was probably their first contact with Europeans in
1602, when Spanish sea captain Sebastian Vizcaino sailed into Monterey Bay. Vizcaino wrote of the Esselen:
"They seem to be gentle and peaceful people..." According to Fray Antonio de la Ascencion, who accompanied
Vizcaino: "The port is all surrounded with...affable Indians, good natives and well-disposed, who like to give what
they have...They go naked at this port."
1602, when Spanish sea captain Sebastian Vizcaino sailed into Monterey Bay. Vizcaino wrote of the Esselen:
"They seem to be gentle and peaceful people..." According to Fray Antonio de la Ascencion, who accompanied
Vizcaino: "The port is all surrounded with...affable Indians, good natives and well-disposed, who like to give what
they have...They go naked at this port."
Three tribes of aboriginal Americans—the Ohlone, Esselen, and Salinan—were apparently the first people to
inhabit the area now known as Big Sur. They hunted and gathered, and vanished after the arrival of the Spanish
missionaries and white settlers. The Esselen lived in the heart of Big Sur and are one of the smallest and least
Point Sur to Big Creek.
inhabit the area now known as Big Sur. They hunted and gathered, and vanished after the arrival of the Spanish
missionaries and white settlers. The Esselen lived in the heart of Big Sur and are one of the smallest and least
Point Sur to Big Creek.
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